Catch a Break: Discovering Hawaii’s Finest Waves

Holly Zynda
Published: January 24,2017

Makuakai Rothman, Sunny Garcia, and Ibon Amatrian ride a wave during the first round of the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau Competition big wave surfing contest on December 8, 2009 in Waimea, Hawaii.
(Kent Nishimura/Getty Images)

Surfing has been at the heart of Hawaiian culture since well before the time of thrill-seeking tourists, and when you consider the geography of these dynamic islands, it’s not hard to see why. The astonishing variety of Hawaii’s coastlines — plus the islands’ physical situation in the storm-roiled Pacific — lends serious credibility to the astonishing, sought after waves for which they are so justly famed.

Hawaii can credit its ground swell for the quality of its breaks. While wind waves, which tend to be brief and choppy, are generated by nearby storms, swell waves are created by storms at sea. They travel great uninterrupted distances, gaining size, speed and power along the way. Late fall through winter is the ideal time for Hawaii’s waves. During these months, they can tower as high as 10-30 feet.

El Niño, La Niña

During an El Niño year, the slackened trade winds and absence of upwelling can crank up Pacific storms to insane levels. Hawaii’s shore is a major beneficiary of these events. Storms occurring closer to shore result in bigger swells. Bigger swells result in monster waves. But those storms are unpredictable, and so is the surf.

A man surfs as the sun sets as seen from Honolulu, Hawaii.
(JEWEL SAMAD/AFP/Getty Images)

Conversely, La Niña has a calming effect on the Pacific, cooling things down after El Niño’s unstable warming effect. The surf rolls in with less unpredictability but also with less fanfare. Yet even during an off-season, “poor surf” is a relative term in Hawaii. Some of the state’s most famous spots deliver world-class waves no matter the meteorological conditions.   

North Shore, Oahu

Hawaii’s most famed surf breaks are found on the northwest coast of Oahu between Kawela Bay and Hale‘iwa. The North Shore is a proving ground for advanced and professional surfers. Newcomers must demonstrate their mettle and earn respect to share these rides. The regular crush of tourists inspires intense localism, and the standard of surfing is extremely high. You don’t have to paddle out to experience their awesome power. All but the most advanced surfers should enjoy the show from ashore.

If history strikes your fancy, head out to Castles, where five-time Olympic swimming medalist and famed Hawaiian surfer Duke Kahanamoku (whom some surfing historians refer to as the Babe Ruth of surfing) is said to have ridden a wave for over a mile in 1917. You can take your picture next to his statue on the beach.

A surfer walks along the sidewalk at Waikiki Beach, past a rainbow in the sky.
(BRENDAN SMIALOWSKI/AFP/Getty Images)

Jaws, Maui

If that doesn’t thrill you, island hop to Maui and experience the fearsome power of Jaws, where waves reach incredible heights. During last winter’s El Niño event, waves reached upwards of 50 feet. Until recently, this reef break was nearly inaccessible, but the innovation of tow-in surfing has made it possible for surfers to conquer these monstrous waves.

Ke'ei, Kealakekua Bay, Big Island

This mile-wide bay offers the best waves at its southern end. It is a mostly left-hand reef break. On a day of great surf, its several peaks merge into a 400-yard ride on a steep, fast barrel.

Hawaiian State of Mind: The Dream, The Legend

No other U.S. state is so intimately connected with surf culture. To feel at the center of this sport, you may want to take on the thrill ride for yourself. The proud history, the ecology of the ocean and the heart-pounding excitement offered are unmatched anywhere else in the world.

Holly Zynda is a copy editor, proofreader and writer with a lifelong passion for the written word. She owns and operates Owl Intermedia, a content production and editing company, and has provided writing and editing services for companies ranging from GoPro and Reputation.com to The California Environmental Protection Agency and Genentech.